Jaipur, Obama and Economic Stimulus by Americans

We took the 5:20 AM train from Agra, site of the Taj Mahal to Jaipur in the NW state of Rajasthan. We saw stars from India for the first time tonight. Before, the pollution was so terrible in Agra and Delhi that we could not see stars.

We have not seen many westerners in Jaipur. People are genuinely interested in where we are from and when we tell them, they almost always say something about Obama's visit to India this same week. One guy told us many details about the secruity measures and the cost. A mega billionaire is hosting him in his prime hotel. I do hope that the distribution of the income to India is beneficial to those of the lower socio-economic layers and does not stay in the upper reaches as often seems to be the case here. I read a very interesting newspaper article about money routinely being siphoned off that was for education, roads and other important needs that benefit people.

Anyway, Jaipur is a major shopping area in Asia. When in Rome...... So we bought a few things and stimulated the economy. Mary told me of Rajathali, a huge place that features the different crafts of Rajasthan. We went and it had irresistable treasures. Then the Americans stimulated the economy in the bazaars within the old walls of the Pink City.

We visually stick out and attract attention. We (ha ha) are tall and pale and dress differently. Most women wear vibrant saris or tunics with tight pants. We keep encountering children and even adults who want to say hello and ask us where we are from and our names. We get into little discussions with them. And we have to not reinforce the children who are begging. Inside my head I repeat, "Remember Slumdog--they don't get to keep the money." In case you need a refresher or have not seen Slumdog Millionaire, it accurately depicts the sad fact that the kids who beg are put on the streets by adults who benefit from the children's efforts.  We have caved a few times and given candy.

Rajasthan is packed with forts and palaces. This is the outside of one palace and for complex. It is from their foyer--an official welcoming area.

The next photo is the same complex over looking the pleasure garden for the ladies who only see the emperor, eunuchs and other women. There was a display of chairs that the women rode in for ceremonies because they couldn't walk due to the weight of their heavily adorned clothes. After that we have a photo of the summer palace on the lake so they could be cooler surrounded by water.

While we've been out and about, this vacation is different than what we usually do. Normally, either in a city or in a rural area, we walk lots. But here, the walking is not something that you do easily and get exercise. It takes some work--don't step in this, don't fall in the sewer, don't go too close to the dog laying in the sidewalk, don't trip over stuff, walk around the cow, don't get run over buy multiple types of vehicles, don't lose each other, don't go by those people who will be obnoxious (touts), don't run into people, don't respond to the zillion people who want you to buy something, and don't get ripped off. So far, no nice strolls or pep walks except in a little deer park at a mausoleum for the emperor, Akbar the Great.

We are staying in a beautiful Heritage House (government supported) called Madhuban that is in an old wooden mansion. The price is surprisingly low for what you get. It has a lovely walled garden where we had tea when we arrived. I love tea as an important part of life.Our room has a little terrace for hanging out. I am glad that we are here for four days. The Gateway in Agra was really grand, but this is  more to our comfort level.

The food has been delicious at every single meal. Fortunately, we both love spicy and exotic food. We don't always know what we are ordering, but the suprise is always yummy and we've had things that are entirely new. I think they put a stick of butter or a cup of cream in every dish, though.

Yesterday, we went to Vrindahvin (sp?), birth place of Krishna. He was raised by foster parents, just like Superman. We thought it was going to be a drive up the National Highway, something like 1 1/2 hours, but noooo, there was an accident and it became really long. But it was still worth it because we say this huge step well and the temple complex for Krishna, the blue god of love. He is blue because he was bit by a snake. We were thoroughly searched (gents in one line, ladies in another). Out came the camera, battery, ipod shuffle, alarm, flashlight, and cell phones which were baby sat by our good natured driver who did not want to come in. The temple complex was an amazing scene filled with Indian pilgrims and we were the only non-Indians. One woman asked me if I was happy. I grinned and said I was very happy.There were different temples and shrines and a life-sized kodachrome diarama of Krishna. No camera made us be here now.

You may recall your earlier introduction to step wells, which are huge stone lined wells built primarily in the 14th through 16th centuries that fill with monsoon rains. As the water level decreases, the steps take people deeper into the big wells, through Escher-like stair cases. They were for washing, drinking, worship, cooling off, and social gathering places. (There will not be a quiz.) The effort and architecture are astounding. It was a treat to unexpectedly come upon this one in the very funky village on the way to the Krishna temple. It is still being used.  On the far steps of the last photo you can see saris laid out to dry.